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Why is exfoliating important??

Exfoliation is one of the main steps in most facials because it removes the dull, dead skin that builds up over time. This helps to signal the skin to begin the cell turnover process that brings the brighter, smoother skin to the top layers. Exfoliation also helps to prevent clogged pores, thus reducing breakouts. Removing the top dead layers also improves texture and allows the skincare products you use to absorb better. As we age, the natural cell turnover process slows and makes exfoliation a bit more important for inducing the cell turnover process. In our 20s, the cells are turning over every 28 days, where in the 30s-40s it is more like 35-40+ days. In your 50s, it can go to 45-90 days. This is why acids and retinols which speed up that process are often touted as anti-aging.

Different types of exfoliation.

There are some different types of exfoliation and some may be better than others for certain conditions or skin types.

  • Physical/Mechanical Exfoliation: This would be scrubs, brushes or tools to manually scrub away dead cells. Dermaplane, microderm, scrubs and brushes would all fall under the umbrella of physical exfoliation.
  • Chemical Exfoliation: This would be enzymes, or acids used for exfoliation. There are many different types of acids and enzymes, but they all essentially work in a similar manner when used as an exfoliant. The enzymes would eat the dead skin cells and debris on the top layer and loosen the bonds between the dead skin cells. Chemical peels or acids loosen the bonds between the skin cells so they can be easily sloughed off. I’ll go more into explaining the differences in acids and why some would be chosen over others in another post.

As a general rule, enzyme exfoliation is a bit gentler than almost every other form of exfoliation, so typically Karin and I use that on first time clients and sensitive skin. Sometimes we will even combine a peel or enzyme with a dermaplane or microderm for better results with the dermaplane or microderm. Since we started with Korean Skincare, I feel like we tend to go a bit gentler though unless we know a client’s skin can handle and needs more.

While I highly recommend having a good exfoliant as part of your routine, I also highly recommend only using acids one to two times per week for most people. Too much exfoliation can cause barrier impairment, sensitivity, and inflammation that may result in acne or accelerated aging.

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My favorite ways to exfoliate.

Two of my favorite exfoliators are the Dermathod Priming Peel Booster Pads and the Corthe Super Enzyme Powder. Both have multiple ways they can be used. They are also both great for all skin types including sensitive skin.

Corthe Super Enzyme Powder is a papaya enzyme with willow bark(which is what salicylic acid is derived from) which gobbles up the dead skin and debris and loosens the bonds between dead skin cells. This powder can be added to water to create a gentle, foamy cleanser. I like to whip it in a bowl to create a froth and apply that to the skin and treat it like a cleanser. It can also be added to an oil based cleanser where it will have more graininess and act more like a scrub.

Dermathod Priming Peel Booster Pads are PHA and LHA which help to loosen dead skin cells, deeply clean pores and also hydrate the skin. The peel pads have a side that is more textured for a little bit of a mechanical exfoliation while applying the acids or a softer side to just swipe the acids onto the skin. These get applied to clean, dry skin and left on for slow releasing acids to have time to work.

Both of these products and more are available in our online store or in person.

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